HEAVENLY BODIES

AN EXHIBIT BOTH NAUGHTY AND NICE

It was a first as far as I know. The Met was allowing visitors to walk through parts of the museum as the museum staff was in the process of assembling their new fashion show, "Heavenly Bodies: Fashion and the Catholic Imagination".  Black platforms had been wheeled into the medieval hall some of them empty while others held mannequins wrapped in plastic and duck tape with only their heads exposed.

The tease was on and I had genuflected at the altar of anticipation. I couldn't wait for the opening to see the reveal.

Once the Met Gala was history and the exhibit had opened to the rest of us my journey started down the corridors adjacent to the massive grand staircase at the center of the Met's entrance. Perched on stilts a series of stoic forms shimmered in couture sequins and metallic threads overhead, a foreshadowing of the angelic forms yet to come.

I headed straight for the platform I had seen during the installation phase and there she was unwrapped from her plastic sheath and duck tape bondage and given a pair of wings for flight.

I'm sure I should have paid much more attention to the designers but I was too swept up in the sheer beauty of the costumes. I let myself be pulled as if on a cloud through the exhibit always looking upward rather than down at the ground where the designer notes had been placed.

The Met had transformed the huge gates of its medieval room into the pearly gates of heaven with the stern presence of the Catholic church's heavy hand of judgment there to greet you.

That sense of submission to one's ultimate fate on earth was present in the weight of the garment's materials and the accessories that tethered the wearer to earth with the massive embroidery and elaborate headpieces.

Contrasting that sense of earthly bound sin was the rising lightness of the airy ensembles that pointed toward the reward of heaven.

Mystery permeated the exhibit in the halls of the Met proper. So much so that I began to see things that weren't there. As with a fire and brimstone sermon the lace covering this face brought me right back to my childhood nightmares of the big bad wolf of Little Red Riding Hood fame.

There was a conscious choice by the exhibit designers to have all the mannequins appear hypnotized with closed eyes as if in a trance in the presence of God.

But to pull me out of my nightmares there were the beaded jackets of Versace a bright light, a beacon to lead me on to the next level of the exhibit.

Down in the Anna Wintour Costume Center were the real regalia of the Catholic Church, the robes and jewelry of former popes. Photography is barred from this part of the exhibit so you'll have to rely on my description and your imagination.

The actual vestments of the Catholic Church are opulent, beautiful, ostentatious, master crafted, oppressive and total art pieces. They incorporate precious metal threads, silks, diamonds, rubies and emeralds spun into wearable tapestries and miters that rival the crowns of kings and queens. They are all simply displayed but not to be missed.

Yet the crown jewel of the entire exhibit is not to be found at the main museum but at its exquisite sister site, the Cloisters.

Located in northern Manhattan the Cloisters is by far the best place to absorb the extraordinary beauty of this exhibit.

The Cloisters is comprised of four sanctuaries; the perfect setting for this very secular theme

Here a virgin bride seemed to float up to an altar in a way that defied gravity

The sense of ceremony and the gravity of faith are so expressive in the solemnity of this spiritual experience. A bride's vow and its importance are felt so deeply at these spatial points of devotion.

It shows itself once again in the faces of the mannequins who all seem to be ensconced in deep prayer.

With many of the ensembles enclosed in glass cases the reflection cast back at the viewer of the space and its visitors brings a sense of time and mortality to the exhibit that was a bit eerie.

That skin crawling feeling peeked out from hidden spaces like a walk through a haunted house. You just knew that underneath this dress was an iron locked chastity belt imprisoning her sexual desire!

The macabre continued to scare as if a horror show was on the cusp of happening around the next corner.

But just as you began to feel the hands of death touching your shoulder a breath of relief came to light in a flirty yet secularly influenced dress.

Pink leg ties under the hem of a mini dress with a playful whimsical print brightened my last good-bye to this impressive exhibit.

Beauty,

Faith

and Catholicism were so mythically intertwined at the Cloisters.

It is a must see. It's a haunting yet serene look at Heavenly Bodies and the Catholic Imagination.






















THE GALLERY

Paris 48 degrees 51' 03" N 2012-07-19 lst 19:46
Thierry Cohen, photographer
Represented by Danzinger Gallery, NYCs

NEW YORK'S GAY PRIDE PARADE 2018

49 YEARS AND COUNTING

With over 2 million people lining the streets of the West Village and Chelsea the thought of finding a place where I could watch a bit of the parade and not end up with a third degree sunburn seemed a bit insurmountable. I was still personally obligated to try to be a sideline supporter to show my support.

I still don't know how I managed it. I bypassed the obvious subway stops that would intersect with the prime areas for viewing the parade and instead decided at getting off on the east side and then walking west on Ninth Street to Fifth Avenue, a block above where the parade turned north from Eighth Street. The entire eastside of the block between Ninth and Tenth was covered in scaffolding providing a canopy from the sun. It was already pretty crowded when I got there.

The parade was already over a half-hour away from the start. I just waited my turn behind a couple of young revelers. When they either got bored, needed to meet up with some of their friends or just had to pee, I squeezed into the front row. Well it wasn't exactly the front row. There was a section in front of us that you needed a V.I.P. wristband to get into but it was in the sun and not well populated. I was in.
This was a new route for the 49th Annual parade. It was done in preparation for next year's parade commemorating the fiftieth anniversary of the Stonewall riots.

They're expecting over three million people to turn up next year and this was to be a trial run for a crowd so huge it needed a lot of preparation.

For the next three and a half hours I held out snapping bits and pieces of the parade from between the posts and scaffolding in front of me and cheering on the marchers.

I missed the grand marshals but I did get there in time to see most of the long line of politicos out grab-handing and kissing babies or other adults.

Cynthia Nixon was out there with the rest of them and about thirty steps in front of Andrew Cuomo.

This year's theme was "Defiantly Different", a response to the current administration's backward paddling on LGBT rights.

There were plenty of issues both local and international to protest. This one was clearly near and dear to our hearts.

Not only was "The Donald" a target but FLOTUS made it into the category of "deplorable" this year as well. What's going on with that entire family? I fear for poor Baron. He's either going to pull a Ronald Reagan Jr. and declare he's an atheist unafraid to burn in hell or he's going to become the head of the NRA

The world of non-profits was well represented by organizations that reach out to the entire community like Gods Love We Deliver

The faith based organizations were also present opening their arms to all New Yorkers whether they were gay or illegal immigrants.

Then there were the organizations with direct links to the LGBT community

And ones specifically targeted to groups sometimes overlooked and forgotten by the rest of the community

Culture always plays an important part in the composition of the parade. The Irish have always been a visible factor especially since for many years they were denied being able to march in their own Irish parade

African and Caribbean cultures are always a visual highlight. There is such great joy in their visual and energetic enthusiasm

What was especially moving was the appearance of geographically areas out marching and proud. In their their own culture not only would they not be prohibited any display and might even risk death for for identifying with being LGBT

Of course corporate America was also very much out in force. Their floats and marching sales forces and staffs stretched out in long lines of pink balloons for the likes of T-Mobile

MAC Cosmetics was also out as they've always been out for the gay community promoting a voice of inclusion and diversity with equal rights for all and of course just the right eye shadow

Macy's never misses a parade and this one was no exception. They were all rainbows and stars

Even Santa made a rare summertime appearance with his infectious smile, gloved wave and a slightly slimmer physique. When you march with the boys you have to put your best six-pack forward

The parade wouldn't be the parade without a little innuendo. Trojan had one of the most eye-catching floats with a lot of skin and a great tagline, "Protect Your Wang"!

The original parade back in 1970 started out as a visible confrontation with authority and an affront to the misconceived idea that the gay community did not deserve to be included in the fabric of America. It was a confrontation telling the world that the LGBT community was not as weak as it was perceived to be by the rest of the world. It was strong and was going to have to be reckoned with.

Everything began with an uprising by a group of gays and drag queens at the Stonewall, a resistance against the homophobic police force and the world in general. Not anymore.

Now the police force walks hand-in-hand with paraders and its own gay and lesbian members and organizations.

The fire department is no different. Tolerance is the same in every New York community organization as the service divisions of the city are no longer out there beating up queer New York but instead embracing them

Embracing the community is not only an adult issue but it extends into our youngest citizens. Primary, middle and high schools all participated in their own marching units or atop floats like this one by The Calhoun School.

The parade had a lot to say about resistance, inclusion, and diversity. It is serious about issues that matter to all of us. It is relevant to a world on the edge but it is also fun

So before we sashay away

I want to smile with the participants who know how to apply a great deep red lipstick

The boys who can show the perfect butt-crack while walking the miles of the parade in perfect leopard high-heels

The girls that are willing to show their girls

The bears telling us a lot of hair and a beer-belly gut can be sexy

That showmanship in fuschia is fierce

And that a whole lot of skin is intimidating but eye-catching all at the same time.

Now I can't wait until next year. I plan on being one of the three million standing on the sideline waving and hooting with the rest of them





















THE GALLERY

Fred with Tires, Hollywood, 1984
Herb Ritts, photographer
Represented by Staley-Wise