OIA, SANTORINI
Since we still had the car for the day and since we were so disappointed with our trip to the beach we decided to make the best of it and make one more “go to” place on the island popular with everyone to view the sunset as it vanishes on the western horizon. Timing is everything and this time our's was perfect.
It’s about a thirty-minute drive from our hotel to Oia. When we arrived we found a street-side parking place almost immediately. The sky was just beginning to put on its light show as we got out of the car and raced to find a vantage point to watch the sun go down. It was a contest with hundreds of other sunset seekers all scrambling for the perfect vantage point to watch the sun fall to the horizon and turn the blue sky into astounding shades of pink and orange and violet.
While most of the crowd pushed for a place closer to the edge of town we found a staircase leading up to a small chapel with what looked like the best viewing point we were going to find.
As we reached the top of the stairs there was a gate with a sign saying private property. We thought we were probably going to miss our opportunity of seeing the sun fall down from the sky having not gone with the crowd but deciding on the stairs.
As we stood at the top of the stairs feeling as if we had blown our chance a local woman strutted by. She saw our disappointment then without using any words she scrunched up her nose, shook her head and waved us in with a flick of her hand. We encouraged another couple that were having the same trepidation and we all walked through the gate and onto the roof to find we had probably found the best view unencumbered by the hordes of bus tour travelers who had been shuttled right by our secret spot
We could see them all from where we stood five, six and eight deep along the barrier walls below us their cameras and iPhones all held high trying to get a picture of the departing sun over the heads of the throngs in front of them. Sometimes things just work out.
It was a spectacular sunset filled with the right amount of billowy clouds to soak up that outrageous color.
From where we stood we not only had the beautiful sunset before us but we had all of this magnificent architecture to add to our view from our perch in the sky.
When the sun made its final curtain call the crowds below burst out into a thunderous applause and then began their trek back to the buses that had brought them there. We stood back and smiled at our good fortune.
After the applause we climbed down from our rooftop aerie and headed into town passing through a labyrinth of quaint shops. We of course strolled through one after another.
It was then we agreed Oia had the right to claim its justification as the most beautiful town on the island.
Even when headed down a dead end alley the painted walls and dramatically lit corners made you stop to take it all in without the fear that most dead ends can engender.
We played the part of Peeping Toms as we stuck our noses into any open doorway that would let us, even if only for a peek.
We did this until hunger finally took hold as we watched a bevy of local cats feasting on food the locals had set out for them, but this time we didn’t have anyone to guide us on the hunt for food in Oia.
We were on our own when we stumbled upon Karma, a restaurant that was as spiritual as it was delicious. Their menu read:
“Love is to see beauty in simplicity, revealing quintessence through the complexity of things. It is the union of opposites, with respect and acceptance. When differences are embraced, the fruit of love is born. This is the basis on which the menu of Karma Restaurant was designed. After seven years on a journey of tastes from around the world, we have the experience to showcase traditional home-made Greek cuisine. Thirty exquisite dishes, based on recipes from Aegean islands, are waiting for you to whisper their secrets and the love with which they were created, and to enjoy a unique dining experience”
Emmy chose a fava bean hummus like dip with caramelized onions. Santorini’s world-renowned yellow peas grown in the volcanic soil under intense sunshine and with a scarcity of water giving them their distinctive taste was a perfect choice. The fava bean mash was served with a basket of crusty warm bread and what the islanders call rusk, a whole grain spelt kind of bread.
I choose a plate of mini pies filled with an ambrosial combination of minced beef and apple chutney and then topped with a Greek yogurt sauce
Our main courses had us divided. Emmy wanted to try their legendary mousaka. I couldn’t face it. The last time Rick and I were in Greece I wound up with a severe case of dysentery from some mousaka I had ordered in Egypt. I let her have at it but I didn’t ask for a taste. She loved the silky ground beef, the roasted eggplant and fried potatoes topped with a creamy béchamel sauce. She also thought it tasted like lasagna.
I had Souvlaki Kotopoulo, a dish of chicken skewers marinated in a combination of lemon juice, garlic and olive oil that were crispy on the outside and juicy on the inside. The plate came with toast, roasted potatoes and a creamy yogurt dip.
Before driving back to Fira we had cappuccinos at our table by the bar. This part of Santorini I would return to in a minute. How often do you get to see a beautiful sunset in an idyllic setting and then eat a magnificent meal all shared with your daughter? Not a bad evening.
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