BILBAO, SPAIN

ARRIVAL

From the moment we touched down in Bilbao we knew we'd arrived at some place very special. We have a set of travel rules when we head toward Europe. Near the top of our list is each venture abroad must contain a stop somewhere we've never been before. This trip it was Bilbao. Our original expectations were only focused on a visit to the Guggenheim. The pin we'd stuck in our Bilboa map and the only prearrangement we'd made was early entry tickets to the museum.

But as our plane touched down at the airport our narrow focus quickly expanded.  Unannounced to my meager book of architectural knowledge I realized the airport structure bore a striking resemblance to the designs of Santiago Calatrava. It's obvious similarity to New York's Oculus and the Art Museum in Milwaukee gave me pause that perhaps Bilbao had more to offer than just the Guggenheim. The airport was an unexpected wing of flight indeed designed by Calarrava and it made our anticipation of what might be in store for us soar.


GRAN HOTEL DOMINE

We've become very adept at selecting legitimately awe inspiring hotels and then getting them at a reasonable rate. Don't ask me how. It's a gift.  For Bilbao we made arrangements to stay at the Gran Hotel Domine. It sets directly across from the Guggenheim and we were given a room with a direct view of the Guggenheim's gleaming façade.

The hotel designed its gracious guest rooms with the same flavor of minimal ornamentation and sleekness as could be seen through its windows looking out onto its inspiration, the Guggenheim

The ample baths with its staggered stonewalls and vessel sinks completed a luxuriously appointed suite. I'm quite sure they had us in mind when they designed the hotel!

A huge sculpture of river stones encased in wire dominates the center of the lobby descending from the top floor and hovering just above a black pool of water.

Each stone has a message written on it, thousands upon thousands of short hopes and dreams all stacked and confined behind wire.

There's a lounge off the lobby we found to be the perfect place to relax in the middle of the day after we'd reached maximum visual overload and needed a place to recharge.

To help with my recharging I rediscovered the delight of a Moscow Mule traditionally served in a copper mug brimming with crushed ice and that perfect ginger zing.  It was just enough to get me going again.

All through the trip I feigned an intense neck pain so Rick would find the sympathy necessary to grant me the indulgence of a massage. This is the place where I cashed in and did it ever feel good.

But by far the best perk of this hotel was its breakfasts, served on the covered rooftop terrace with a view that would be hard to surpass.

The menu was varied and rich in regional dishes but their Eggs Benedict was something we didn't pass up on each and every morning between seven and eleven. Our favorite waitress was always at the ready with a cappuccino for me and a black tea with an extra glass of ice and a wedge of lemon for Rick.


















THE CITY

Bilbao is so much more than the Guggenheim. Exploring it's old town and wandering along the river bank are just as important and better done on foot where you can stop every twenty feet to take in the architectural beauties so wonderfully intact in Bilbao.

At times the dichotomy of old and new is prepared and served like an appetizer and a main course brought to the table at the same time.

It can present itself in the form of carved figures supporting the entablature as on the façade of its concert hall where a current production of Westside Story" was in performance.

The subway station in the old part of town is a glorious example of the art nouveau period.

The influence of art nouveau came at a period of growth for the city and it's a style that repeats itself in amazing details throughout the city.

We went so far as to stop at several real estate agencies and do a little wish shopping for new apartment. A prominent feature of many of the apartment buildings is this bay extending out four to five feet at the front of each apartment.  If we were only rich instead of so darn good looking we would have easily added another residence to our home portfolio!

In contrast to it's historic architectural heritage the renaissance of quality contemporary architecture has been integrated into the city in a way not many other cities have been able to duplicate.

New towers soar into the skyline in a way that doesn't diminish the rest of the city but lights the city at night and gives visitors a focal point to help with directions.

These guiding lights came in handy as we tried to navigate the amazing plazas and pristine fountains that dot the city and kept us thinking we could go down one more street without getting totally lost. It's not only the beauty of Bilbao but the pristine quality of life that impressed us. There's a clean and comfortable quality to life in this Basque city on the estuary of the Nervion and Ibaizabal rivers.

All of this and I haven't even mentioned the food. Outdoor restaurants dot almost every corner with a nightlife that is relaxed, warm and comfortable.

The specialty of the area is pinchos, small tastings similar to tapas. We obviously had to try and try we did from Iberian pork with onions and chimichurri on toast points

to egg yolks served with creamed mushrooms, potato crumbs and bits of ham. Who could go wrong?

Even if it weren't true, Bilbao certainly made us feel as if we were both Mr. Marvelous.