BOCCO DI VINO

KARMA

There was one dinner we had planned well before our rear ends hit the seats of our TAP flight from New York. We would do a return visit to the restaurant where we’ve enjoyed many repasts including one of my more memorable birthdays, Bocco di Vino where the food is superb and the view is spellbinding. Bocco di Vino sets on a hillside overlooking the valley of the Arbia river and the vineyards of Montalcino.

The dinner was slotted for Wednesday evening. During the day we had done nothing but sit by the pool and enjoy the company of friends and closing our eyes in restful silence until it was time to dip into the water or turn over and let the sun bake through our skin and into our souls.

Rick, JoHannah and I decided to go into Montalcino a little early to do some window-shopping. In an act of complete generosity* I had dropped Rick and JoHannah off in town and then parked the car in a lot down the steeply inclined streets of the inner village and then down another ninety-seven cobbled uneven steps so they wouldn't have to make the climb. When I breathlessly rejoined the two of them it was as if Montalcino knew we were coming and had decked out the streets in our honor.
*Editor’s note - notice how the writer is always throwing his partner and friends under the bus in his feeble attempt to raise his own stature.

The real reason was that it was a continuation of the district dinners going on around the town with more white wrapped tables and a multi-generational mix of young and old breaking bread in centuries’ long tradition.

We spent most of our time in a linen and fragrance shop pouring over woolen blankets, pure linen tablecloths and bottles of floral and herbal body lotions and perfumes.

Even though the daytime temperature had
touched the ninety-degree mark the high altitude of Montalcino and the frequent evening breezes could make for a bit of a chill. We had dressed accordingly in layers just in case we needed that jacket once the sun went down. Since we had decided to arrive early all of us were carrying our extra layers as we walked through the streets. JoHannah had stuffed her sweater into her purse and Rick had slipped his over his cross-body bag
We had gotten so absorbed in looking through all that linen we had lost track of time. We didn't
have time for me to go down that crazy hill and
ninety-seven steps to get the car and provide chauffer service to the other two so we all hobbled as best we could back to the car.
Once we got to the car and were ready to leave we heard an "Oh shit" from Rick who was sitting in the back seat. "Where's my jacket!" Somewhere on our walk back his jacket had slipped off his shoulder strap.
An immediate plan was formulated. We'd drive back up into town and illegally park the car with JoHannah remaining in getaway position while Rick and I would back track through Montalcino in hopes we'd find the jacket. We went over every inch of Montalcino proper but came up empty handed. Rick put up a façade of resignation. He accepted his fate with grace and calm. Time had run out. We were now late for dinner. We drove back down out of the old town. Just as we were passing the beginning of the ninety-seven steps, there on the embankment wall was Rick's jacket neatly folded and draped over the stone ledge. Karma.  Release the need and the reward will find you.
DINNER

We were the last to arrive. Stefania and Alessandro had reserved a perfect table with a more than perfect view.

The meal began with an amuse bouche of panzanella with cracker thin crispy chips seasoned with pepper and spices letting everyone inhale the chef's style of taste and presentation.

As an appetizer I chose to go with their specialty, an onion soup. It was like no other onion soup I'd ever had. It was more of a puree of onions with a softer cheese that didn't pull out in long strings from your spoon in the way of a more traditional onion soup. The whole effect was so delicious I was sure my next course was going to be a disappointment.

JoHannah had chosen Il Tuorlo Bio: egg yolks deep-fried to just the correct point where when you broke through the crust the yolk remained runny. The yolks are then placed on crispy waffle wafers and served with green asparagus, almonds, basil and sour cream. The technique of separating the egg yolk and deep frying it without breaking it yet allowing it to miraculously remain runny is a skill taking years to master.

Rick went for an appetizer made from offal. JoHannah's nose curled up at the thought but it was a pick I would have chosen as well.  It was a beautifully plated dish of quenelles of chicken liver pate with toast points and an apple compote. The pate was smooth and creamy and paired perfectly with the compote.

We had all decided that we would stick with a primo piatto and skip the secundo piatto. We knew that after the way we'd all been eating during the week going full hog was only going to result in tons of popped buttons and burst zippers with the exception of Rick who seems to eat anything and everything and often and still maintains his high school weight. Then JoHannah decided to buck our system and skip over the primo and head straight to the secundo piatto page where she found a duck breast served with figs and a sauce of reduced balsamic along side green vegetables and pistachios. It was good but not as good as the duck Stefania had prepared on our first night in Armena.

 Rick and I both stuck with pastas. He chose a pappardelle carbonara mixed with prawns and crispy Tuscan bacon then dusted with 100% Arabica coffee powder.

I hit the jackpot. I rarely go for a main course without some sort of meat involved but I had looked at my profile in the mirror before we left that evening. I felt my silhouette was beginning to look a lot more like Alfred Hitchcock's than Brad Pitt's although I admit it never did look like Brad's. I chose handmade ravioli stuffed with violet potatoes, onions, lemon zest, and hazelnuts all swimming in a sea of butter. Tada. I won!

The other end of the table ordered a selection of dolces but our end went for a glass of the best vin santé and six biscotti-like cantucci to dip in the glass, just the right amount of sweetness and perfect alcohol burn.

Delicioso!